Service Slants

Ford Truck

Thumping noise. Some 2006 4.OL Ford Explorers and Mercury Mountaineers, as well as 2007 Explorer Sport Tracs, may produce an annoying thumping sound when the air conditioning compressor engages. According to Ford, the noise is limited to vehicles built before 2/7/06, may be intermittent in nature and is most likely the result of the a/c suction line contacting the sheet metal cowl in the engine compartment. Installing or repositioning a foam block (Part No. 6L2Z-16738-B) between the suction line and cowl should insulate the line and eliminate the noise immediately.

The small circled area in the illustration at right shows the most likely point of contact between the suction line and cowl. The inset shows the foam block properly installed. If the block is already there but you can still hear the thumping noise, reposition it as indicated. If the foam block is nowhere to be found, install it, making sure the adhesive side faces the cowl and that it's in line with the suction line ferrel.

Chevrolet

False ABS code. If you're scanning a 2005 Chevy Cobalt and notice a DTC U2108 (ECM lost communications with ABS/TCS control system) stored in PCM memory, do yourself a favor and check to see if the vehicle even has ABS! Chevrolet says a software glitch can cause the code to store on non-ABS vehicles.

The anomaly is limited to cars built before 2/05, and the MIL won't illuminate when the DTC is logged. If you're thinking about clearing the code, forget it; it'll only come back on the next key cycle. As of now, Chevy hasn't come up with a software fix, so just ignore the code. However, if the MIL does illuminate when the U2108 stores, look for additional codes that might be causing the concern.

Toyota

Brake vibration. Toyota reports that some 2000-05 ECHO models may produce a significant vibration when the brakes are applied. The Japanese carmaker attributes the bad vibes to rusted front rotors, and says the problem is most obvious in the Snow Belt and other parts of the country that put down lots of road salt during the winter months. Replacing (not machining) the rotors and installing new brake pads is the obvious fix. After the rotors are installed, Toyota recommends performing a quick check with a dial indicator to ensure that lateral runout is within spec. If it isn't, reindex the rotor to the hub one stud at a time until the runout is within bounds.

Ford

Brake squeal. Owners of 2004-05 Freestar and Monterey minivans with a build date between 8/1/03 and 5/30/05 may complain of a continuous squealing sound emanating from the front brakes. After some careful analysis, Ford has traced the problem to incompatibility issues between the front brake pad material and the rotors. New-design brake pads with a different friction formulation (Part No. 5F2Z-2001-SA) have been made available to put the squealing problem to bed.

Mitsubishi

Squeal or groan in Reverse. Some 2004-05 Lancer Ralliait and Sportback models (build date prior to 11/1/05) may produce a squealing or groaning sound from the rear brakes when backing up under light brake pedal application. Mitsubishi says the noise is most pronounced when the brakes are cold, and is most likely due to the pad linings grabbing, then releasing, at the rotors. Installing new-design rear brake pads (Part No. 4605A336) with a different friction compound should eliminate the annoyance.

Saturn

Hard start, no start, warning lamps on dash illuminated. Some 2005-06 Relay minivans may have starting difficulties that may be accompanied by some very strange electrical symptoms. Some of the complaints you might hear are that the engine won't start, starts with difficulty or stalls. In addition, the fuel gauge may be inoperative or erratic and the MIL, ABS, TCS, Service Traction System and/or All-WheelDrive Disabled warning lights may be illuminated on the dash. The TCS system may also activate needlessly, with multiple DTCs stored in computer memory.

Saturn has traced all of these problems to either corroded or spread terminals at connector C305. You'll find the connector on the floor, just to the rear of the driver's seat. The fix depends on what you find when you get there. If the connector is corroded, water is getting into the vehicle. Find and fix the leak first, then replace the connector. If the terminals are spread, don't try to straighten them out, says Saturn, because chances are you'll still get an intermittent connection. Replace the terminals with parts from a terminal repair kit.

Ford Truck

Grabbing brakes. Ford reports that some 1997-99 F-150 pickups are prone to grabbing or locking up the rear brakes on the first few applications after a long soak in extremely muggy weather. Shoe linings that are ultra-sensitive to high-humidity conditions are the most probable cause of the grabby brakes, says Ford. New shoes with an improved lining formulation are now available to solve the problem. You'll find the upgraded brake shoes in a kit, Part No. F85Z-2200-AA.

Audi

Improper ABS activation. Audi reports that quite a few of its 1996-2005 models may activate the ABS under light or normal braking. If checking for conventional problems like damaged speed sensors or wires, mismatched tires or out-of-spec speed sensor air gaps proves fruitless, the German carmaker recommends looking for small cracks in the ABS tone wheels because they're prevalent on lots of its vehicles. Depending on the model, the tone wheel can be found at the outer CV joint, at the wheel hub or the inside of the brake rotor.

Finding a minute crack in a tone wheel with the naked eye is just about impossible, warns Audi. The best way to check for a crack is with a lab scope hooked up to a speed sensor. A normal tone wheel will show a smooth, round, uninterrupted sine wave that increases in amplitude and frequency as wheel speed increases. If there's a crack in the wheel, however, you'll see a notch or flat spot on the waveform that repeats itself at the same point for every revolution of the wheel. Replacing the CV joint, hub or rotor is the only remedy.

Vehicles that are prone to tone wheel cracks are 1996-2001 A4s, 1998-2002 A8s, 1998-2004 A6s and 2000-05 Allroad Quattros.

Acura

Front suspension noise. Some 2005-06 RSX models may produce a clunking sound from the front suspension at slow speeds while the driver turns the steering wheel in either direction. One probable cause for the unwanted noise, according to Acura, is the front coil springs oscillating against the spring seats on the struts.

To make a definitive diagnosis, start the engine in your bay, then turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock. If you hear the noise at any time during the rotation of the wheel, that nails the coil springs as the culprit. Swapping in revised springs with a special insulated wrapping should put an end to the ruckus immediately. When you install the springs, make sure the wrapped end is positioned firmly against the spring seat. Here are the upgraded spring part numbers:

Vehicle/Side Part No.

RSX Type S (right) .. .51401-S6M-A52

RSX Type S (left) ... .51406-S6M-A52

RSX w/manual trans. (right) .... .51401-S6M-C02

RSX w/manual trans. (left) ......51406-S6M-C02

RSX w/automatic trans. (right) .... .51401-S6M-J02

RSX w/automatic trans. (left) ......51406-S6M-J02

Ford Truck

Brake roughness or shudder. Owners of some 2004-06 Ford Expeditions and Lincoln Navigators may complain of roughness or a shuddering sensation when hitting the brakes. Ford says the problem is limited to trucks built between 12/18/03 and 3/1/06, and is a direct result of design flaws inherent in the front rotors and calipers. Installing upgraded rotors (Part No. 6L1Z-1125-A) and newdesign, loaded calipers (Part Nos. 6L1Z-2B120-D and 6L1Z-2B121-D) should put the problem to rest.

Before ordering the upgraded rotors, however, look for the four-digit alphanumeric date code stamped between the fins of the existing rotors. The first digit is always a number, signifying the year of manufacture. The second digit is always a letter, signifying the month the rotor was built. The last two digits are the day of the month the rotor was manufactured.

If the date code on either rotor is before 4H23 (Aug. 23, 2004), go ahead and install the upgraded rotors and calipers. If the code is after that date, the new rotors are already installed. Just turn them, preferably with an on-car lathe, then swap in the new-design caliper assemblies.

Mitsubishi

Steering column noise. Drivers of 2004-05 Endeavors and Galants, as well as 2006 Eclipse models (all built prior to 6/10/05), may complain of an annoying rubbing or clicking sound that emanates from the top of the steering column as the steering wheel is turned.

According to Mitsubishi, one likely cause of the noise is the steering wheel not fully compressing the turn signal cancel cam. That'll result in the cam tabs making contact with the inner housing of the column as the wheel rotates, which, in turn, causes the rubbing or clicking noise. Installing a washer between the column and column switch top mounting screw should change the position of the cancel cam just enough to eliminate the contact.

Start the job by ordering up a flat washer from your local parts house. You'll want it to be about 1.5mm thick, with an outside diameter no larger than 14mm and a center hole no bigger than 6mm. Next step is to disconnect the battery ground cable and wait about ten minutes to allow the air bag module to time out. Once that's done, remove the steering wheel, followed by the column switch. Position the washer, then reinstall the column switch. To complete the repair, reinstall the steering wheel, reconnect the battery cable, start the vehicle, then turn the steering wheel to make sure the unwanted sound has been eradicated.

Ford Truck

Clutch noise. Owners of 1998-2002 Ranger pickups may come into your shop complaining of an irritating hooting or moaning sound from the clutch while shifting gears. Ford says the noise is most obvious when the clutch is almost fully engaged (pedal at 90% of its travel height) and is caused by the pressure plate going into abnormal resonance with the clutch disc. Installing a beefier pressure plate and new-design clutch disc should remedy the noise condition immediately. For the clutch disc, order Part No. 2L5Z-7550-AARM for four-cylinder engines and 2L5Z-7550-BARM for the 3.0L V6. The pressure plate is the same for all engines (Part No. 2L5Z-7563-AA).

GM Truck

Blower motor noise. Many 2005-06 Chevy Colorados and GMC Canyons are prone to producing an annoying ticking, chirping, clicking or whirring noise from the blower motor. GM says the noise is most obvious at low fan speeds, and attributes it to the location of the motor-in the passenger compartment underneath the dash, as opposed to the better-insulated confines of the engine bay. Installing a new insulating cover assembly (Part No. 15836647) over the motor should muffle the noise to your customer's satisfaction.

Start the job by removing the front passenger door sill and interior kick panel moldings, followed by the floor courtesy light. Next, remove the BCM connector at the motor and disengage the metal retaining clip from the BCM harness. You should now have an open shot at the blower motor. Flex the insulating cover and position it over the motor. When properly installed, the cover will be formfitted to the motor, with the retainer hole aligning with a hole in the rear of the motor. In addition, a stud on the motor will align with the second hole in the cover.

Continue by securing the cover to the motor with a push-pin fastener (Part No. 10098645). Now reroute the BCM harness over the cover and secure it with the metal clip. To complete the fix, install the courtesy light and interior moldings, then run the blower motor on low speed to verify that the noise has been significantly reduced or eliminated.

Lexus

Noise from front suspension. Some 1997-2000 ES 300 cars and 1999-2000 RX 300 sport/utes may produce a squeaking or chirping sound from the front suspension when going over rough, washboardtype road surfaces.

One likely cause for the noise is a defective upper strut mount. The problem can occur on one or both sides of the vehicle, says Lexus. New-design mounts (Part No. 48603-33021, right side; 48609-33121, left side) with a different shaped rubber bushing are now available to address the noise issue.

Jeep

Creaking or popping sound from front. Owners of 2002 Liberty models built before 8/31/01 may complain of a creaking or popping sound from the front of the vehicle. According to Jeep, the noise typically occurs under lowspeed braking or while performing slow-speed turns (such as parking maneuvers) and is most likely the result of the left front corner of the skid plate making contact with the crossmember in the area of front lower control arm bolt. Repositioning or replacing the skid plate should eliminate the racket immediately.

Start the job by raising the truck on a lift. Now loosen (don't remove) the four skid plate retaining bolts. Next, slide the plate as far to the passenger side of the vehicle as possible, then snug the four bolts. Using a ruler or vernier caliper, measure the clearance between the left corner of the skid plate and the crossmember. If it's 1/8 in. or greater, torque the skid plate retaining bolts to 45 ft.-lbs. and the repair is complete. If the clearance is less than 1/8 in., the skid plate is deformed. Replace it with a new-design plate (Part No. 52128539AC, 3.7L engines; 52128540AC, 2.4 and 2.5L engines), again making sure it's positioned as far to the passenger side of the vehicle as possible.

Dodge Truck

Service 4WD warning lamp illuminated, DTC C144A set. Some 2006 2500-Series heavy-duty Ram Trucks with the 5.7L engine (build date on or before 5/19/06) may turn on the Service 4WD light and log code C144A in computer memory. If the light comes on only when the transfer case is in 4LO and an attempt is made to lock the rear axle, the code is probably bogus, says Dodge.

To check things out, hook up your scanner and start hunting for DTCs. If codes other than the C144A are stored, address them first. After that, wipe out code C144A to turn off the warning lamp. Next, bring the truck into a large parking lot and start driving very slowly (less than 3 mph). Now shift into Neutral, put the transfer case in 4LO and rotate the axle locker selector to the "rear lock" position. If the Service 4WD light comes back on and code C144A restores in memory, you know that the code is false and the Final Drive Control Module needs a flashing with new software files. If you have a subscription, you can get the updated files (software release 6.06 or higher) via the Internet.

Pontiac

Noise from engine compartment. Owners of 2003-06 1.8L Vibe crossover vehicles may complain of a whistling or hooting sound emanating from the engine bay under light throttle at speeds between 35 and 40 mph. According to Pontiac, the noise almost always occurs with the drivetrain at normal operating temperature, and is most likely the result of resonant frequencies setting up in the transmission cooler lines. Installing new-design, better-insulated hoses (Part No. 88974609, inlet; 88974610, outlet) should eliminate the annoyance in short order.

Note: Save the four hose clamps; you'll need them to install the upgraded hoses. The new hoses are unidirectional, with the yellow paint mark installed toward the radiator and the white mark toward the transaxle. A special retaining clamp (Part No. 88974608) is needed to hold the hoses together at the radiator support. After the installation is complete, make sure the hoses aren't kinked or twisted.

Toyota

Intermittent no-start. Some 2005-06 4Runner, Land Cruiser, Sequoia and Tundra trucks with the 2UZ-FE V8 may suffer from an occasional no-start condition. Toyota says the problem usually occurs following a hot soak, and may be accompanied by an illuminated MIL with DTCs P0335 and/or P01340 logged in PCM memory. An intermittent signal from the camshaft position sensor is the most likely cause of the no-start. An upgraded cam sensor (Part No. 19300-50030) is now available to fix the problem. Figure about an hour or so of labor to install it.

Ford

MIL on, DTC stored. Some 2006 Ford Fusions and Mustangs, Lincoln Zephyrs and Mercury Milans (all with the 4.6L V8) may turn on the MIL and store DTC PlOOO (System Readiness Status Incomplete) in computer memory at high altitudes. If you can't get the monitors to complete no matter how hard you try and clearing the code proves fruitless, chances are the PCM is in need of a software upgrade, says Ford. You'll find the reprogramming files in WDS release B40.4 and higher or B41.1 and higher. If you have a subscription, you can also download the new calibration off the Internet at www.motorcraft.com.

Acura

MIL on, ECT sensor code stored. Some 2005-06 RL, RSX and MDX models, as well as 2006 TL and TSX vehicles, may illuminate the MIL and store DTC P0116 in computer memory. A P0116 code indicates that the signal from the ECT sensor is out of range. Acura says the coolant sensor or its wiring could be on the fritz, but a

more likely scenario is that the PCM is just misinterpreting the voltage signal from the sensor. Reprogramming the PCM with updated software should turn off the MIL and eliminate the code.

Before reprogramming, hook up your scan tool and compare the voltage readings from the ECT sensor with the expected values found in a repair manual. You might want to double-check the results with a DVOM or lab scope. If you find a problem with the signal, replace the sensor or repair the wiring, as necessary. If the signal is on the money, reprogram the PCM with software version 2.005.004 or later. Here's the relevant calibration information:

Toyota

MIL on, DTCs stored. Some 2005-06 Corolla and Matrix models with the IZZ-FE engine may turn on the MIL and store DTC P0171 (System Too Lean-Bank 1) and/or P2195 (Oxygen Sensor Signal Stuck Lean-Bank 1, Sensor 1) in computer memory. Toyota attributes the illuminated MIL and lean codes to a misbehaving air/fuel ratio sensor. A new-design sensor (Part No. 89467-12010) is now available to rectify the problem. The upgraded sensor found its way into production at the following VIN breakpoints at the assembly plants shown:

Model VIN

Corolla (Takaoko) ............... JTDBR3#E#60058893

Corolla (NUMMI) .................1NXBR3#E#6Z596819

Matrix (TMMC) ...................2T1BR3#E#6C576811

Matrix (TMMC) ...................2T1KR3#E#6C565110

Honda

Noise and/or vibration from rear. Some 2003-07 Pilot SUVs and 2006-07 Ridgeline pickups may produce a groaning noise and/or vibration from the rear when going through turns. Honda says the symptoms are most likely the result of the differential clutches grabbing and releasing, and attributes the condition to the diff fluid being contaminated by clutch material or water.

Start your diagnosis by taking the truck to a large parking lot and doing about ten figure-8s with the steering wheel at full lock. Try to accelerate at the start of each circle to allow the diff clutches to apply and release. If you don't hear the groaning noise and/or feel a juddering sensation, this fix doesn't apply; look elsewhere for the problem. If you do hear the noise and/or feel the vibration, take the vehicle back to the shop and get it up on a lift.

Place a large pan under the rear axle, remove the fill and drain plugs from the rear differential and allow the fluid to drain completely. The fluid should be bright red. If it's pink, it means water got into the differential through the vent tube, probably when launching a boat or driving through water deep enough to submerge the tires. The diff clutches could be toast at this point, but don't give up just yet.

Continue the job by installing the drain plug and old sealing washer. Next, fill the differential with about 5 ½ qts. of VTM-4 fluid (Part No. 082200-9003). Top off the fluid until it's at the bottom of the fill hole, then reinstall the old sealing washer and fill plug. Now go back to the same parking lot and make at least another ten figure-8s with the steering wheel at full lock. The more you can do, the better. This will allow the fresh fluid to penetrate into the clutch linings.

When you get back to the shop, put the truck on a lift once again. Drain the fluid and install the drain plug, this time using a new sealing washer. Now put in another fresh batch of the diff lube, top off to the bottom of the fill hole, then reinstall the fill plug, again with a new sealing washer. Next step? You guessed it-back to the parking lot to do another bunch of figure-8s with the steering wheel at full lock. If the noise and/or vibration are gone at this point, you're done with the fix. If not, the rear differential needs to come out of the truck.

Chrysler

Rattling or knocking noise from front end. Some 2001-05 Town & Country, Caravan and Voyager minivans may produce a loud rattle or knock from the front suspension when driven over rough or uneven road surfaces. Chrysler says the problem is limited to vans built on or before 3/1/05, and is caused by the front sway bar making direct contact with the frame. New-design, more durable front sway bar bushings are now available to eliminate the condition. Order Part No. 04743024AD for 26mm stabilizer bars, 04743041AD for 26.5mm bars.

lnfiniti

Inoperative or sticking fuel door. The fuel filler door on some 1997-99 Q45 models may fail to open, stick or be difficult to close. The exact fix depends on what you experience during diagnosis. If you hear the door solenoid actuate as you press the switch on the driver's armrest but the door fails to open, replace the door spring with an updated, beefier design (Part No. 78836-6P010). Ditto if the door is difficult to close. If the solenoid doesn't respond when you hit the switch, it's toast. Replace the solenoid with an updated unit (Part No. 78850-6P020), as well as the spring.

To install the new solenoid and spring, open the trunk and pull the emergency cord while a buddy puts pressure on the front of the door. That should get the door open. Now slide the old spring out and replace it with the new part. Working from the right side of the trunk, remove the trim panel to gain access to the solenoid. While your buddy removes the solenoid retaining nut at the fuel filler door, pull on the solenoid and remove it from the vehicle. To complete the fix, install the updated solenoid and retaining nut, then check for proper operation of the fuel filler door. If it's still hard to open or close, check for a bent striker on the door. If the striker is bent, try to straighten it out. If the door still gives you trouble, replace it.

Copyright Hearst Business Publishing Jun 2007
Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights Reserved